JDH describes arrival at Point de Galle 31 Dec. Compares Cape Comorin, Cape of Good Hope & Cape Horn. Met by [George] Gardner [GG] with invitation from Lord Torrington to visit Candy [Kandy] but no time. Describes native peoples. Notes Thespesia populnea, Jack & Mango trees, & valuable timbers. Walked wooded lanes with GG, reminded of Amsterdam & Lyden. Showed GG home similar to Hartecamp, Linnaeus’ residence. Lists plant species in damp, very wet & dryer areas. Names fern species & common weeds, tropical roadside genera & palms. Discusses useful plants; Sonneratia acida wood for boxes, Terminalia catappa embryo eaten for dessert, Ficus demonum [F. daemonum] leaves to polish wood, & Artocarpus pubescens. Lists shrubs & small trees. Few parasites & epiphytes. Widespread Passiflora foetida introduced 1824, Bryophyllum & Allamanda cathartica. Discusses relationship between phosphorescent insects & humidity observed in Madras [Chennai], Calcutta [Kolkata], Behar, Birbhoom, Shahabad, Mizrapore & Darjeeling. Mosses fairly represented, algae very rare, lichens abundant. Bid farewell to Matilda. JDH uncertain he will visit Ceylon [Sri Lanka] again. Collected Trimeriza. Visited house with beautiful carved curiosities & jewels. Reminded of Professor Miller of Cambridge. Arrived Madras with GG, 5 Jan. Describes Lord Dalhousie’s military reception & vast number of natives in welcoming party. Met various knowledgeable people while staying with Lord Tweeddale. Walter Elliot directed him to Buddhist antiquities. Discusses winged lion familiar from Syrian marbles & sketches by Walter Forbes. [Brian Houghton] Hodgson says they are evidence of Asian origin of the Buddhist religion. In another letter JDH will show how the physical geography has indicated the positions of the tribes of people as well as plants, & has regulated their migration. Spent a long time with WE at botanic garden under care of Captain Worcester'. Describes garden.

JDH describes arrival at Aden, its landscape, history, population & compares it to Gibraltar. They stayed at the west end of the Peninsular where Captain Haines, Indian Navy resides. Saw Somalis employed by Hindus & Arabs as servants, who would dive for 6d pieces much to Lady Dalhousie’s amusement. In the afternoon the 'Precursor' arrived & JDH met Mr & Mrs Smith. Describes striking coastal scenery with little vegetation excepting Capparis, Acacia & Euphorbias. Describes Sunday visit to the cantonment with Haines & Courtenay, travelling by French Barouche & Arab horses. Surveyed fortifications & saw forts, guns, black Sepoy soldiers, vultures & ruined Turkish castles. JDH ascended to a signal station & notes aqueduct leading to the peninsular. At Captain Haines’ residence met by Assistant Political Agent, Lieutenant Cruttenden, contributor to the GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY JOURNAL, & Civil Surgeon, Dr Vaughan. Visited the church with wholly military congregation. Also went to the highest part of the island: Shamsun, JDH describes landscape & sprinkled vegetation of about 40 species. Road to ridge very well built & though to have been constructed by captive Jews under Solyman [Suleiman] the magnificent. Towards top of ridge found two plants lately figured by Lindley in the BOTANICAL REGISTER. Discusses vegetation & view. Saw that the 'Precursor' had grounded. Signal station at top of ridge, barren of everything except lichens. Monday collected early morning in a cooler valley & visited the beach. Lists plants, saw fox but no apes. Returned to Captain Haines' & prepared to start for Ceylon where they arrived 31 Dec. On arrival met Gardner who had been awaiting their arrival at Colombo. Matilda Rigby had arrived in Ceylon [Sri Lanka] the previous day. Letter concludes on 6 Jan from Government House where JDH is with G.G. [Governor General?] & from where they sail to Calcutta [Kolkata] on Saturday.

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No summary available. This letter was started on the 9th November but was not completed and sent until the 18 November 1848

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Since JDHs last letter from Aden they have been on the Indian Ocean, the most uninteresting sea he has crossed. Sighted Cape Comorin last Thursday & landed at Point de Galle on Friday, a few hours after the 'Precursor'. Thought of FH & English friends on Christmas day. Describes the 'Moozuffer' as more like a yacht than a man of war. Lord & Lady Dalhousie are in the Captain’s cabin whilst he, Fane, Courtenay & Dr Bell are in the ships dirty armoury next to the engine. Indian Navy officers do not like ships being used as passage boats. JDH met a godson of FH’s father, Lieutenant Jermyn. At Ceylon [Sri Lanka] JDH again saw Matilda Rigby who left Colombo where James Smith’s house & property is. JDH finds Lord & Lady D extremely agreeable but indifferent to science. Notes the cuisine as odious. Lady D’s health is better & soon after arriving her father, Lord Tweeddale, Governor of Madras [Chennai], came on board in a grand party. JDH will leave Madras on Friday morning & go to Calcutta [Kolkata]. He has not made many sketches since leaving Cairo, he was too busy botanising in Aden. Nearly all his collections have been destroyed from salt water on board ship. His spare papers were also destroyed so he could not collect at Point de Galle. Intends spending a week with George Gardner [GG] at Candy [Kandy], Ceylon on his way to Borneo. Describes curious boats in Madras. Describes the beauty of Point de Galle & the Cinghalese [Singhalese] people with tortoise shell combs & coca-nut oil in their hair. Notes Areca, Betel-nut palms, bread-fruit, plantain, banana, pineapple, mosquitoes, sand flies & leeches. At Point de Galle party divided into three. JDH went on several walks with GG, his father’s protégé. JDH was glad to introduce GG to Lord D who received him kindly. JDH will write shortly from Calcutta.

JDH has corresponded with Robert Wight regarding the address of Mrs Wight, currently in Scotland. Baillieu or Arnott may have more information regarding Mrs W. JDH asks for some things he forgot to be sent out to him via the Cape, incl. Lindley's THE VEGETABLE KINGDOM, his testimonials, Humboldt's letter & a copy of the RBG Kew guide. He refers to the Ladakh mission in Tibet. JDH is struggling with names of common plants that are unfamiliar to him. He discusses the Agri-Horticultural garden in Madras [Chennai] and the man who runs it, an amateur gardener: Captain Worcester who will send RBG Kew roots of mango trees, Notheria, Orchideae & palms as he is doing for Loddiges. JDH considers Walter Elliott the best man in Madras, he is knowledgeable about mammals & birds.

JDH describes his arrival at Madras harbour with Lord Dalhousie [James Andrew Broun-Ramsay], his daughter [Lady Susan Georgiana Hay], [Colonel Francis William Henry] Fane, Courtenay & Bell. They were met by the Marquis of Tweedale [George Hay] of whom JDH expresses a very low opinion, & later given a grand oriental welcome including large crowds, a military reception & bands playing God Save the Queen. JDH describes Madras, government house & his stay there & his opinion of the people he stayed with & encountered, including: ladies Tweedale & Dalhousie; Lord Arthur Hay, a collecting naturalist; Lord Dance; Major Garsten, previously of Abercrombie Place & now resident at the Court of the Nabob of Arat; General Cubbon, political agent for Mysore; Cubbon's surgeon who knew about cotton growing in the hottest parts of India; Mr & Mrs Walter Elliott, collectors of antiquities; & the Wedderburn's, friends of Matilda Ripley[?]. JDH also describes the bungalow in the grounds of government house where he stayed & the sumptuous tents that the aide de camps live in. He mentions Admiral Highfield of the 'Vernon' and Sir Blackwood of the 'Fox'. The latter is going to survey the Teak forest of Moulmein [Mawlamyine, Burma] as the Teak on the Malabar coast has been exhausted. JDH mentions his preparations for onward travel: securing Giddy's collector and looking for servants to employ. JDH also describes some street performers & a levee presided over by Dalhousie. JDH spent most of his time at the Horticultural Society Garden. From Calcutta [Kolkata] JDH writes that he values Bessy's letters, is plagued by mosquitoes, met Robert Reddie & plans to go to Midnapore & Burdwan with Guney[?].

JDH gives his opinion of John McClelland [JMC], his efforts to prepare William Griffith's [WG] work for publication & the changes he is making to the East India Company Botanical Garden, Calcutta [Kolkata]. Mentions four monuments in the Garden: to General Kyd, to Roxburgh, to Jack & to Griffith & some of the most beautiful plants: palms, mahogany, Terminalis, Naucleas, DIllenias & Tectona grandis. Government are nervous about the management of the Garden as Nathaniel Wallich [NW] was not cooperative as Superintendant . JDH is hopeful for the Garden under Hugh Falconer. JDH is complementary about WG's drawings, which are being lithographed & comments on the extent & quality of his writings & maps. WG's published work will represent mosses & Hepaticae, grasses & Cyperaceae, other phaenogamae, & new or rare species, not ferns. WJH should have got WG's fern specimens from Bootan [Bhutan], Mishmee [Mishmi] & Ava[?]. JMC is also lithographing a Wallich catalogue. Gives his opinion of WG. JDH recounts a discussion with George Gardener about why WJH fell out with Fielding. Discusses: his supplies, including paper; the transportation of live plants to India for Sir L. Peel; & material for the Niger Flora. Mentions Mr Philips, Lord Auckland, Mr Colville, Mr Brown, Aunt Palgrave, Colonel Lawrence political resident at Lahore & Sir H. Willock. Discusses mosses returned by Wilson. Outlines his plan to travel with the geological surveyor Williams, previously companion to Henry Thomas De la Beche. The route will encompass Burdwan, Dermooda Valley, Soane river, Arungabad, Vindhya hills, Bijiggur & Chunar or Mirzapore. Describes how he will travel, the servants he will have & equipment they will carry. Mentions collecting around Calcutta & is surprised by the lack of mosses, Hepaticae, fungi & orchids. He hopes to get an Amherstia. JDH will go to Darjeeling in Mar. JDH conveys what he knows about members of the Ladakh expedition: Major Cunningham, Strachey & Thomas Thomson.

JDH was staying with Sir L. Peel then at Government House with Lady & Lord Dalhousie. JDH is now travelling with Mr Williams' camp & was supplied for the trip by Sir James Colvile; nephew of Lord Auckland. JDH travelled Dawk: by Palanquin, from Calcutta [Kolkata] via Hooghly & the McIntosh's house at Burdwan to the camp at Taldangah where he met Mr Theobold & F. Watkins. JDH describes the vegetation of elevated Bengal table land in dry season: Zizyphus, grasses, Saul & Lac tree, Bamboo: no ferns, Liliums, mosses, fungi. Describes Paras-Nath mountain [Shikharji], ascent on elephants, the mountain village: Moderbund [Madhuban] & its temples. Mustard, wheat, dole & pulse are cultivated there, also Banyan & tamarind trees & groves of Saul, Fig, leguminous trees, Peepul & mango. People of Paras-Nath mostly Hindu with some Mahomedans [Muslims]. JDH found Buddhist engravings & learned from Mr Haddon that Paras-Nath is place of pilgrimage. Witnessed a Poojah: a Hindu ceremony. Woods on the mountain were dense Shorea robusta with Bauhinia climbers & much bamboo, two ferns, Cheilanthes, Adiantum & Selaginela. JDH wonders at the lack of tropical vegetation. The vegetation at the top of the mountain incl. Clematis, Barberry, grass parasitic on trees & traces of herbaceous plants possibly Begonias. JDH will visit again in the wet season for Cryptogams. Animals incl. squirrels, few birds & butterflies. On the road to Benares JDH saw mineral springs & got Confervae there for Harvey. From Dunwar Pass travelled on alluvial plain & dry Soane River to Bidjegur & Mirzapore. Common plants: Fici, Acacias, Toddy Palm & local date. JDH witnessed a tropical aurora. Future plans incl. going to Catmandoo [Kathmandu] in Nepal or Cherra Poonjee [Cherrapunji] & Ava in the Cassya [Khasi] Hills. JDH mentions working on Griffith's papers, Gurney, Claude Hamilton, Finlay of Easter Hill, Robert Reddie, [Nathaniel] Wallich, Cantor, Colly Comar, the Asiatic Society, Miss Henlslow & Wheatstone.

JDH writes re. meteorological observations. He reminds Wheatstone that he left England in Nov on HMS 'Sidon' with Lord Dalhousie & arrived in Egypt in Dec. He explains the observations he made on the effect of the sun on the soil temperature at Cairo & results he got in different locations at different times of day, including at the Great Pyramid. On board the Honourable East India Company Steam Frigate "Moozuffer" from Suez to Calcutta [Kolkata] JDH took temperature & dew point readings but his barometer was disturbed by the engine. He includes a table of his observations. He observed that the waters in the gulf are saltier than any other sea & the salinity decreases towards Mocha before normalising. This variation is unlike anything JDH observed on the voyage with Captain Ross. The Persian Gulf is said to have similar salinity to the Indian Ocean. JDH discusses the winds & currents in the Red Sea. Winds are particularly strong in the Gulf of Akabar & were violent up to Jibbel Teer. He mentions the depression of the Red Sea below the level of the Mediterranean, two occurrences of a crepuscular arch witnessed between Madras [Chennai] & Calcutta & the beautiful sunsets at Aden. JDH is now travelling with Mr Williams up the banks of the River Soane to Mirzapore, having reached the Dunwar Pass from Burdwan & climbed the highest mountain in lower Bengal: Paris-Nath [Parasnath or Shikharji]. He is taking observations regularly to determine the effect of climate on vegetation over large areas. Next he will go to Sikkim in the east Himalaya. He carries his Newman's Portable barometer everywhere personally. He explains how he observes terrestrial & solar radiation. JDH describes an aurora he observed on 14 Feb [1848], it was the more impressive than any he has seen in Scotland or the South Polar regions & included an auroral arch. He has sent the account to be published in Calcutta & also invites Wheatstone to share it with The Philosophical Club & The Athenaeum.

JDH thanks WJH & mother for letters. Discusses sending live plants including from the Himalayas via Hugh Falconer [HF] at Calcutta [Kolkata] who would retain set of duplicates & forward the rest cost free to RBG Kew. Lists the advantages of this plan such as expense. Discusses character of & relationship with HF. They were great friends for two years & except for Lyell, Owen, Darwin & Forbes, JDH had no better friend. Letter continues 16 Feb, they depart up the Soane. The plate of Blume sent to HF was one of JDH’s incomplete copy of Bijdugur [Bidjegur or Bijagarh].

At Madras [Chennai] JDH asked about cheetahs. Conveys observations on their domestication & hunting. Describes hawking practices & birds used. Observes that natural features separate species but this is only one factor, e.g. different antelopes found on either side of River Soane which should not be a barrier to migration. The different types of Indian elephant also an example of races in districts. Discusses kinds of wild & domesticated dogs & cattle. The native Bison is extinct. Sciurus maximus: Peninsular Squirrel, is example of locality-specific colouring. From behaviour of alpine & plain species observes animals are more able to adapt to heat than cold, altitude a factor. JDH wants a specimen of an alligator from Zillah Shahabad. Deforestation changing climate & killing crocodiles. Observes Sand Martins nests colonised by Phalangium spiders & comments on diurnal migration of Neilgherry Ghaats [Nilgiri Ghats] swallows. Plains are alluvial deposits with interesting mineralogy. Will send Forbes a letter re. coal formation. Re. botany, as Darwin is interested in vegetation of isolated mountains, JDH comments on flora of one he climbed incl. barberry. Has found new species of Vallisneria. 4 Mar: JDH left Williams' geological survey to go to Mirzapore, Calcutta [Kolkata] & Darjeeling in Sikkim Himalaya. JDH's address is botanic garden Calcutta, care of Falconer. Recounts passage out to India. Has stayed with Sir L. Peel, Mr Colvile nephew of Lord Auckland, & at Government House. JDH hopes to join the Geographical Survey of Kamaon by naturalists, covering Sewalik hills to Tibet & Simla to Nepal. Thomson is in Yarkand studying geology & botanical geography, Cunningham in Cashmere [Kashmir] & Strachey in Chinese Tibet. Mentions Equus hermionus, an Auroch horn, his health & plan to go to Cherra Poonjee in Sylhet. Mar 8: en route to Bhagulpore down Ganges. Feb 16: will look for cirripedia for Darwin in Borneo, sends regards to Lyells & recommends Griffith's Journals.

JDH is on the Ganges en route from Mirzapore to Bhagulpore & Darjeeling . He describes the climate & riverbank vegetation: grass, Dhal, Grain, Cicer arietinum lentil, Carthamus, Vetches, rice, Argemone mexicana, a Mudar possibly Calotropis sp., Ficus, Artocarpus, Leguminosae, Toddy Palm, a Phoenix, also animals. He describes his boat, Hindu crew & travelling set-up including sketch of boat. His servants are Clemanze & a Muslim called Thirkahl. He has a Pummalow [pomelo] in his provisions. At Ghazeepore JDH will meet Trench, see manufacture of rose water, & Bengal Army stud horses. At Dinapore he will see opium works & Dr. Irving. JDH explains the process of collecting & drying plants whilst with Williams, including drying paper used, the weather pattern & why it is the wrong season for collecting. Dryness in India means few Epiphytal Orchideae, ferns & Cryptogammia except Riccia. Other plants collected incl.: Vallisnera; Villarsiae; Potamogetons; one fungi, an Agaric; a Fissidens moss, few lichens & no Hepaticae. He describes an aboriginal bellows made of leaves procured for the Kew Museum, at fairs he buys boxes, beads & medicines. Roberts gave samples of cultivated grains. JDH critiques work done on the Calcutta [Kolkata] Botanic Gardens by William Griffith[WG] & Robert McLelland [McClelland] & outlines changes he advised Hugh Falconer make. He describes gale & dust storm of 18 Mar. Lord Dalhousie made Gurney Assistant Surgeon of the General Hospital. At request of Colville JDH wrote to Lord Auckland. He discusses Auckland's reputation. Describes a gun bought from Brown. Wight has promised to get wood & seeds for Kew. JDH wants permission from the Rajah to enter Sikkim. Discusses going to north of Bhutan to Tibet in the current climate of trade & war with China & the likely flora. The richest botanical areas in India are Sikkim, upper Assam, Sylhet & Mishmee & Cosiah [Khasi] hills. Discusses his Bengal collection. Mentions WG's publications & Harvey's microscope.

JDH summarises the collection he has sent home. Now in Rajmahal Hills amongst Ferns, Orchids & Hoyas. In winter he will return to Rajmahal & Parasnath for Cryptogamia & animals. He has boxes of Patna wood for the Kew museum & will get more items. JDH met Dr Gordon at Mirzapore, Fred Thomson at Benare & Wallace, Trench & others at Ghazeepore, where he saw rose garden & manufacture of rose water & Attar. At Dinapore [Danapur] missed Captain Hemchman but met Captain Doria. At Patna stayed with Irvine who went with WJH to Slaffa & collected Fucus balticus; visited the opium factory & got a set of their tools; met a son of Admiral Beaufort & through him heard of Mrs L.P. Wilson’s death. In India JDH is known from James Clark Ross's account of their voyage. Thanked Lord Dalhousie for appointing Gurney. At Morghyr he & Dr Hastings visited hot springs where they worship the Confervae, could not collect them as at Sarroukbund. At Bhungalpore [Bhagalpur] staying with Grant & Raikes, has met Clergyman Vaux & written account of Major Napleton's horticultural garden for JOURNAL OF BOTANY, the curator is named Ross. Mr Pontel cultivates flowers & has given JDH a bamboo & Bauhinia bark bow with reed arrows. JDH will return for mineral & fossil woods for Henry de la Beche. Will travel via Purnah & Titalyah. Enumerates his expenses. He has recommended the Governor protect timber trees like Walnut & Sal. Mentions poor state of materia medica & science in India. Writing from Colgong [Kahalgaon] 8 Apr adds he met Mr Alexander & is staying at an Indigo planter's house overlooking the Ganges & a landscape of Casuarina, mango groves, Tamarind milia, Ficus religiosa or 'Peepul', Borassus, Phoenix, sand flats & distant Himalayas. He anticipates luxuriant flora at Darjeeling. JDH prefers up-country India to Calcutta [Kolkata]. Mentions Thomas Thomson, Vicary, MacIvor in Madras [Chennai], Brewster's article in the N. BRITISH REVIEW, Lord Morpeth, Mr Phillippe, Lord Auckland, Lawrence Peel.