From W. E. Darwin to Emma Darwin 24 September [1878]

My dear Mother

We are now about 250 Miles from N. York. We have a perfectly clear brilliant sky and calm sea, and good N W. Breeze; the air has the same invigorating feeling as on the top of a Swiss Mountain. It was one of the prettiest sights yesterday when we took on our pilot, it was just such a day as today only with a good stiff breeze & a tolerable sea; the American pilot boats are like the most beautiful yachts and race out to meet the steamers sometimes coming out as much as 800 miles, this one came out about 450 and sailed close by us at 10 knots an hour and dropped the pilot in a rowing boat, and then turned round & sailed after us. Yesterday also we had another sign of land in a small goldfinch (?) flying on board.

All this morning we have been sitting & walking on deck watching the whales blowing & looking at the sea which is of a deep blue. We left Queenstown on Sunday week with a S. W. gale in our teeth which lasted 24 hours, and I was fairly sick, and it was impossible to sleep as we rolled so. The noise was wonderful, there was a Devils tea party going on all night among the plates and glasses in the saloon; and the water was dashing at one's porthole like a crowd of wild beasts, and all above it was groaning & creaking in a grand way, & our portmanteaus keep gliding round the cabin in very ghostly way. From Tuesday night till Saturday night we had calm sea and only some rolling; unfortunately it has utterly upset my digestion and this is the first day I have felt even tolerable, so that I have not been to dinne in the saloon [illeg] and have always breakfasted in my bed. I have had some sickness from indigestion each day when quite calm, so that though not really bad I have been very uncomfortable all the way. I think S. is much better for the voyage, that fresh air & rest from all cook worries has been a great thing for her. We get in tonight at 10 oclock

6 o'clock a m Wednesday here we are in harbour with a most glorious day. S. is very well & in high spirits & I am nearly all right.

S.sends her best love to all

Goodbye dear Mother | W. E. D.