From E. M. Bonham Carter? to H. E. Darwin 8–12 September [1869]

Dearest H.

Having divisted myself of all clothing & donned my night-gown I feel able to write to you & tell you, that yre a nice & good girl to have writ so soon again— The weather is lovely & I wd () no complaint now but that I'm obliged to () my windows becos of mosquitoes who otherwise wd come in & still do come & bite one just like the Cannes ones. Oh I do gasp & long so for a breath of mountain air & think of Engsten & the snowy Titlis in this hothole but tis no use, only it seems wicked to be wasting such heavenly weather cleark skies & sun & lovely sunsets I have come to see some picturesque ness in this country though & to feel how Turner would have rendered it— & if I have energy I hope somewhat, but it is very difficult. I have rather a team to drive I feel as I am here I can't go off for the day to sketch as I shd like & leave Hugh to his own devices— He is in better spirits than I expected but oh these men, where is their common sense, it is incredible when one thinks how they will take all the trouble etc to come here & then try to shirk everything that gives them a little— & then sometimes he is so languid—I have a business to get him under weigh for an afternoon outing & yet every time after it he allows he feels much better— poor fellow I daresay he is a worse burden to himself than to me by far— & we have done much better than I expected this 14 nt as far as people were concerned, but the worst of it is we are late in the season (for this place) & every body is going & we've got 2 friends already one a dear little German man who was here with wife & children. The nicest German I ever saw so bright & clean & merry, with eyes always brim–ful of fun, nothing very deep in him, but just a creature that twas a pleasure to be with He spoke English & took a fancy to (Iona) & that amused her. (T) other friend was a contrast, a rather fast very self occupied, very dressy English woman a Mrs (Watney)— but good natured & amusing for a short time & affording a perfectly harmless flirtation for Hugh— on that account & because she took us out drives & showed us a new dress & hat every day she was here— I'm sorry she is gone, but of her individuality I should have got fearfully tried— she was eaten up with self conciousness. There is no one now left in the hotel with whom we can really cotten, unless some come, but as you truly remark we are chiefly among Germans & French & the English chruch is not next door & although I have been there twice, it is in no way offensive, quite a quiet affair & very few people at it. We had a ball the other day wh. was really great fun— at the (Kurhaus), it was a native ball, I mean not given for the strangers & that made it very amusing. Every kind of Krenznacher was there from the elite down to the shopkeeprs— the room is a very fine one & the order very admirable compared to our scuffles & struggles. We took Mrs Watney who had that day taken a great fancy to us, because her friend had left her & she was hard up for amusement. I must however say for her that she enjoyed herself as much as anyone & we didn't come home till 3! As chaperone I did not dance more than twice, but the partners were not such as I coveted & (Iona) took to it & danced away with all the little shopkeepers as readily as possible— I'm very glad (to find) she has hardly any of an English girl's prudery at things wh. are not like her own country's customs & she enjoys very easily tho' she is so queit–- () it. As I feared poor child she feels the place (relaxing) & I am sure has not felt really well since we came, but that I am afraid she must bear. I feel much better now & I am taking a few baths & drinking some steel waters— wh. I hope I shall not feel the worse for— but I remember I did feel the (balta) once for taking some of this same (Schwalbach) water & I carefully explained to our D^r that when I was here before I did not benefit by the baths, so I am not taking so many or quite in the same way— I should not have taken the trouble to do this, but that I find I must fritter away my time in looking after Hugh & could not do much in the drawing line when I have that on my mind & so I cant go to Switzerland for any time this year I shall hope to get some good out of this— I do wish you cd get George ordered here— though perhaps that's not quite a kind wish, but with a sufficiency of friends here it wd be quite nice, there are many nice walks & little excursions, but it is no use talking of that. I can't tell at all yet all our chance of geting to Vevey in time to see ought of the Nortons. They leave Oct 10. &() 6 weeks wont be up till Oct 5! so it could only be done by my leaving H. for his last week & that must depend on how he is of course— I've had an invite from M(me) Helmhotz wh. I might accept for a day on the way to Switz, but shd not feel incline to waste my Norton time on her. If I do go I can take some () at the place you were to go to. We have the Pall Mall every day as it is not an expensive () & so I dont get Specs— I shd have liked to see that on Huxley. I have our little friend [Carthope's] book & am much disappointed & rather vexed with it— it is not even funny I think (ab.) I did expect & it is to full of notes, you feel you can hardly get along () them & () de is very young & sees noting but the ridiculious side of the (outré)strong minded ones. Now I'm going to do the Subjection as a conective If you want more blue beeds (here) are shoals hereif any thing cheaper than our Swiss ones & very pretty onyx too & amethyst. I enjoy all you can tell me Fry's & everything what a mercy that is over

Sept 12. My dear I am almost ashamed to send this, it has go so stale in my writing case, where I kept it, in hopes of adding something more to it & now yr 3rd letter has arrived(to) force me to send this, you are a good excellent girl. I am so very sorry ab^t George— poor fellow it is so tiresome just as he is going to begin his profession. I think yu & he had better go to Meran together. I had hope you (would) not really regret the Eton master ship, I don't believe, he could have done it with satisfaction if he had a very decided feeling against it as he seems to have had. It seems to me you all want a harmless little play of 1 Act, then a little [Tryolene] melodrama wh. I wanted when & wh. would have been pretty had it been well done— but I don't think tis worth going to again. I had no idea you had taken to Italian I suppose it is the Wells man of whom I had rather a melancholy account from the Normans. I have read all the P. Mall has hd abt ⁠⟨⁠the⁠⟩⁠ Byron affair, but it is very difficult to make out of it is to be believed (yur) (sph) as it were. I think it is high time I leafe off this (rather) twaddle— you must for give it, for really all my nervous energy goes here in making the wheels of life go— & when I'm not doing that I collapse. It is raining & blowing but not cold & I don't think winter is here yet. Mind you write me ab^t George

Emily