From H. E. Darwin to Emma Darwin 10 [May 1866]

Dearest Mamy—

I believe I have never written since y^r. last wh. is very ungrateful of me. Please forgive—& thank Frank very much indeed for his capital letter— He has a great genius for writing— About his coming to fetch me I have nothing new to say. Elinor will come home unless very decidedly sent to German Baths by the Doctor she is recommended to see in Paris & whom she is half inclined not to see but to come straight home to Paget—only she says what shall she do if Paget orders her off to German—- She shall feel then she was such a fool not to go before—& he does deal in german baths Elinor knows. I think if there is misschief in her back it must be very slight by old Batts not discerning it after his very careful exam. E. has been better than at Cannes—less unequal for exertion & more desirous of taking a little trouble to see things. She is going one carriage exped today—she wants to go one—& it is not to be wondered at but goodness only knows how it will answer. She has done too much several days since we have been here.

We leave here (as at present advised) on Wednesday the 16^th. arr. Avignon Th. 17^th. & arr Paris Sun 20^th. or Mon 21^st.. Then we count upon staying 2 or 3 or 4 days—but I dont think E. wd mind making it 4 days if Frank came out—only he won't come out for escort you know—but, as I said before, it will be very nice for us both. Still Paris is not far & he will be sure to go so it is a question—only remember tho' that it is my chance of seeing things too—going to the Louvre & making intelligent remarks to a maid is a very diff^c. thing. Still weigh everthing in yr mind & settle according— Of course we still may stay on here a few days if E. is not well enough to move on Wed. etc etc. This is written before making our Tourette start & very stoopid I feel having only just swallowed my breakfast & being demi awake & only semi demi dressed. This is my first drive but I went a donkey exped with Miff which was very nice indeed. To a vally called the Vallon obseur all over arched with rocks covered with maiden hair—exceedingly striking I thought him—& Miff said it was like things in Derbyshire. The donkeys were good & took us very well. I find donkey riding very demoralising  I never can walk when I've been riding one for long— We have been having delicious real summer weather these last two or three days—not only hot sun but weather when one leaves off one's fl - - - - l pett - - - - t & sits out after tea without a rag of extra clothing on— Yesterday was particularly lovely & I went a very nice walk all alone. I feel m. bolder about walking alone here than I do at home—the people are all so friendly & one is never in a lonely place for long without a little cottage farm—appearing amongst the olives. The object of my walk was some fountains coming out of calcareous rocks. I only got to one of them where there was an old mill making use of the water in a wonderfully rich valley with all the grass under the olives cutting or carrying on donkeys & smelling delicious— I found a most amiable schöne mülerinn & schöne into the bargain—& so healthy looking as if all ailments that this mortal flesh is heir to were utterly unknown. I wish I had large soft brown eyes and olive complexion & a small well set on head—they all have that & therefore all look handsome but this girl was very pretty—first she took me down into the bottom to look up at the waterfall & the maiden hair—& then I sat down whilst she sold some flour & then she came & walked part of the way home with me to show me my way conversing agreably in good french wh. is more than they all can do—& she understood me which was as odd. I rather wounded her feelings by offering her a frank but when she had kept away from her work for about 20 m. I didn't like not to—but she forgave me as she saw my intentions were good & we parted on the highest terms of good will.

Letters are going your dear M. | H. E. D.