From Leonard Darwin to Emma Darwin 6 May [1875]

Dear mother

I have not written to you for an age, but as I have been travelling homeward all the time I hope that it wont be a long while between the letters when they reach you. I waited longer at San Francisco than I had intended—more than a week altogether—in order that two Transit of Venus men from the Sandwich Islands might have time to join me in my trip to the Yosemite, but they threw me over at the last minute, and I started off alone. I was rather glad they did on the whole as they would probably not have cared to go about as much as much as I did, or to walk up any of the hills. Hardly anyone thinks of walking here and the wretched horses have to pack heavier people than me up these hills, some of them over 4000ft from the starting point. I was the first person to to go up one of the mountains—the Clouds Rest—this year simply because it envolved about two hours walk up hill the regular path being blocked up with snow. I had four days in the valley which I enjoyed as much as possible, though I think the American estimate of the beauty of the views are a little exaggerated. There have been great floods on the railway, and for some time all traffic was stopped in fact it had only been opened for two days before I crossed  In coming here our train was delayed in every possible way first a train in front of us had an accident in which three men were killed—4 hours then our engine broke down 2 hours; the way was bad and we had to go slowly where the floods had been—4 hours—and lastly some men took to fighting and we had to wait till the police came and locked them up. This railway travelling might be pleasant in summer when sitting outside on the platform, but now it is too cold to be enjoyable. I came across the two Transit men in the same train which made it much pleasanter  I do not think they have got their sleeping car system to perfection here. Twice I had to sleep in the birth above a lady in the same section; I do not think that is a nice idea, but as there was really nothing unpleasant about it and as the ladies in question did not mind, it did not affect me  I stopped at Salt Lake for a day; it is not the least worth seeing in itself as George told me, but it was worth stopping there as a break in the journey  Went to the theatre there and saw a very good play one actor in which would have made money in London. My plans are to go from here to Washington—Philadelphia—New York—Boston and then a round trip to the Falls, down the S^t Lawrence and back to N. York and then home. I was walking with one of my transit friends last night and we both confessed that if our inclinations were merely consulted, we should go straight to New York and take the first steamer home and that it was only a strong sense of duty that kept us to our work. I believe I have been growling all through this letter if so dont believe a word of it; it is only the effect of a cold in the head that I caught coming across on the cars. I enclose an untidy scrap for George which I forgot to post before.

Your affec son | Leonard Darwin