From H. E. Darwin to Emma Darwin 12 [April 1870]

Hotel Vic. Cannes.

Tuesday 12

Dearest Mother—

I am beginning my letter at 8 A M so the [clence] is in it if it doesn't get off today—& bring up all back arrears— I quite forgot you & yesterday when I had well started on my walk it suddenly flashed upon me, what an enormous time it was since I had written— My throat has got almost quite well. It didn't have an access last night—& the only reason is becos I've gone & spent 6 precious francs in a remedy. Post come. It is so awfully nasty too, it will be purgatory to drink it— The external— — — — — — — — — — —

Here came in my french lesson [et] I don't kno what I was going to say.

Poor old Bobby. I always feared he would die. I'm glad we have so good a photograph of him. I hope he is buried somewhere in the garden. Shall you get another for a house dog. Polly is all very well for guarding me—but I don't thk she is much for guarding the house— I thk if u do get another, you must try & get an [ungainy] dog, for else they'll be sure to go off hunting— After all I am sadly afraid I shall not come home so soon as I expected— Marie is nearly certain t take this place & the Langtons have put off going till the 1st. of May— No, I guess I shall come back sooner for the Stricklands say I may claw on to them—but I shall know better tomorrow— I am vaccinated all right— This a.m. at 9^.^30 in walked Mr. Strickland to propose a party for the Islands so I accepted & set off to get ready—no sooner was he gone than up drove Mrs. Strickland to say it was given up becos of Miss [Nevile's] headach—isn't there a fate against me & the islands— Mrs. S. asked me to go & drive with her—so we shopped about the town & I got our piqué dresses & tried to get your collar— The dresses are 85—i.e 68fQQQQ—which seems a good deal—but it is beautiful embroiding & I thk is m. m suitable than a silk, cos it is never too smart & alw. smart eno'—& will last for ever— Then I went back to lunch with them—took a little walk— Then came Mildred to tea & eventually Ed & Lena, & then I staid behind to be vaccinated— The funny people all [jangled] abt who shd. pay the doctor & finally they settled I was to do it becos I talked abt it in a hardened way & ask him how much—which I did & only got for answer Ce que vous voudrez—so we paid a [nap]— I found being en [cordinee] the whole day from 8 up till 6.30 rather trying so goodnight— It seems a mere [jiffin] now till coming home  If I come with the Stricks, Monday week night— If with Marie Wednesday week night I shall kno tomorrow as I've said before—too tired for more.

Wednesday. So lovely. I must go to Antibes today even if I go with Marie. We shall go in by chemise??? de [fer] to save on purses.

4 P. M. Now for another try to get this letter off the stocks— I am dressed & changed after a most sweet day with Ed instead of with Marie. Again we squeaked our train in [truly] Langton style. Of course Ed at the last minute going back to look for something. Lena says if I lived with them my hair wd. soon turn grey—but it is exemplary how I sit & read my novel when I kno it is a mere fluke whether we get it. Lena's principle is that you cant lose a train in France—but she condescended to [men] today when we saw the train getting up steam & over due to start before we were in the station. It was a day one of a 100—cloudless & hot as real summer—& such a blue sea & glittering clear air so that every olive looked all lined with silver. Its such a wonderfully picturesque place. An old town in a little height with handsome old fortifications & a little tiny fort with boats with latoon sails—& such a lovely view all over the bay of Nice & all the promontories as far as San remo of difft. shades of bluey lilac, & the whole snowy range without a cloud—as soon as you get past the picturesque old town so as to have it for a foreground, it makes one of the most lovely views I have ever seen. At the station we got into a bus & went out to a new hotel at the tip of the cap where it is [easiest] to get your luncheon—such a pretty drive seeing this lovely view in & out of olive woods— At the cap we ordered our lunch & then set off a walk by the coast wh. was as sweet as any thg we did. There was a little breeze to fill the sails of the fishing boasts & send us the sweetest white waves on to the rocks at our feet—whilst every now & then there was a cove where it was so calm & clean you saw every pebble at the bottom. We went for about a mile along this rocky path & then we turned inland to take a round home, thro' pine woods & lavender & cystus & myrtle & thyme making the most delicious hot wafts of an odour that no other smell in the world comes near—so hot—so aromatic so refreshing & so intoxicating. We came upon various brown barelegged men sleeping after their dinners & just raising themselves for a look & a sleepy bonjour—& besides that, the only animals we saw were great cicada's as big as small birds—so back to luncheon pretty hungry—& then a little carriage to the old town where we spent the rest of our time with great delectation— 1st. walking round the fortifications—at one place we came upon an amateur concert on a drum. The performer one soldier, the audience one young man till we joined—when there was a marked improvement—you never heard such de [foreer]—we had a good deal of fun out of the soldiers later on—we saw them being drilled which seems to consist in making them skip & jump about like ballet dancers. The tours itself is very pretty & not near so dirty as usual with a main street quite a [illeg] & a row of micoconber trees in their 1st. tender green leaf—lots of dogs sleeping round, & brown pots put out to sell—& nobody to buy—only old women with yellow hankerchiefs sitting in their doors, & so home—finding our walk up here pretty hot after having been on our legs for most of the time in a boiling sun. Now I am going up to Mrs. Mathesons to sing—tho' I fear I haven't got my voice back again & Goodbye for this batch—

Evening— Here comes the last batch  I've just finished off my french lesson for tomorrow. Marie is engaged by the lady. If all goes well & I don't take (vaccin) I shall come with the Stricklands sleeping at Marseilles, Paris & I think most likely London. It will make it rather late & long coming home the same day at the same time would [you] tear out the leaf of the London Chatham & Dover & the Folkestons  [Tunbridge] & Charing [illeg] p. 65 I think & send them to me so that I may see about the feasibility. If I should take in vaccination—or if I shd. want to stay v.m. for some reason I should wait for the Langtons who start on the 23rd

It is nice to thk of coming home so soon. I will tell F. what to pay in to the bank when I get home—

yours H.E.D.

Please cite as “FL-1111,” in Ɛpsilon: The Darwin Family Letters Collection accessed on 28 April 2024, https://epsilon.ac.uk/view/darwin-family-letters/letters/FL-1111