From H. E. Darwin to G. H. Darwin 14 April [1870]

Dear G.

I suppose you are thinking of your start soon. I am very sorry for William's having had to give up Rome, but from what I hear of the fever I think it is wise. I expect nobody will be able to go to Rome soon. However he seems enjoying Florence thoroughly & that is all one ought to want. I hope he will go & see the Nortons now. I can't thk how Mother came to start him without their address. I suppose I shan't hear from you again before you start. You haven't been near so handsome in writing as William & Frank—who have been v. good boys. Praps you'll say I've not been v. good to u—but I have written enormously home, & have counted upon such of my family as wanted my news seeing some of them. Writing my double journal to home & Hope makes a good deal of writing work—& the pen paper & ink I have used are something marvellous. Now we are at the beginning of the end. Uncle Ch. has been looking at Bradshaw & I have been making out how much money I shall want—an unpleasant task. I have done one of my expeditions  I've set my heart on. I sent down a stern note to Ed at abt 7 oclk A M when I knew he w^d. be enfeebled with sleep telling him to make ready & come to Antibes. wh. he did & we had a perf day for a view which, I am sure, beats most things this side styx— The funny Lena won't go any where— She has only been one single walk since I have been in Cannes— Tomorrow I have planned a little lark for myself—to see the sunset on the snowy m^ts.. I must make Marie drag her bones up—as it is rather too lovely to go alone late in the evening when all the English are safe in their houses— Summer sounds & spring buds are beginning to come on at a famous rate. I hear the dear frogs croaking away— I like the sound from associations—else A priori it ought to be hideous— I have had a death tick for the last two or three nights & of all aggravating little insects that is the most aggravating. If it ticked evenly I sh^d.n't mind—but it works itself up into a kind of fury in the middle & then goes down slower & slower. Today Lena & I have been at a most funny entertainment—tho' she is v. savage at that name— It took place in a little chapel—much adorned with flowers & consisted of a solo in the violin—a solo song, a duet & that Ave Maria of Bach's that Frank plays— It sounded so funny & secular— There was a kind of bower of flowers with a little plaster of Paris cast of a lamb & there all the people knelt & worshipped, as there was a great crowd everybody coming in tumbled over their feet & I thought how difficult it w^d. be to have devotional feelings under such circes; but Lena says to have people tumble over you w^d. makes no sort of difference. I sh^d. like to kno whether her church isn't just as much a mechanical act as the telling of beads. I very much suspect it is. On Sat. I am gng over for the day to Nice to see some Harrises—not M^rs. [Gamps] kind—as they live at a v. pretty villa and as he draws beautifully, I think twill be good fun— Nice itself is a [loathy] place—all Caucites say it is getting desisted except by Russians. We [shew] the [spern] with Nice—& we have American Circus & all sorts of [Gaigly] gaité. (I cant remember how to spell that word in English). I thk I have made a good step in my French— We have a lot of Dutchys in our Hotel & I guess if u were here you would half talk it before now. It ⁠⟨⁠⁠⟨⁠sounds⁠⟩⁠⁠⟩⁠ so like English it is quite absurd not to be able to understand it & for the first day or two I couldn't help thinking I should if I listened a little harder—

Well Goodbye dear G. This is not much of a letter—but I wanted to wish you good speed—& this is my 1^st. moment to myself & now my back aches like 20 devils— your ever most affect | H.E.D.

I've found F.'s chap on Morals very interesting reading & I [anger] well for the interestingness of the Book. I believe there is a lady in the house who thinks I am an unclean beast. Lena says she talks of me in an awed manner—& she has every other human being in the hotel to call upon her but me. She is what Lena calls ""elect.""