From H. E. Litchfield to Emma Darwin 2 [October 1871]

Dear Mother.

You will think us changeable as weathercocks for we are going over the Cenis after all! The fact is that I think the long drive over the alps is not a good expenditure of strength & that the rail all the way t Geneva will suit me better. R. says I should think, comparatively speaking, small beer of Maggiore after Como & so I don't break my heart at giving that up. By the Cenis route we gain so much time, instead of having only a week t spend on the other side, I hope we shall have 10 days—& we have now had so much lake [work] I shall vote for going up the Salène which Effie liked so much & trying t get a look at M^t. Blanc.

Yesterday we went t the Cat^l. & heard a grand Messe not good music but it always has a grand effect  Then I clomb partly up t the top & looked over the Lombard plain dotted with little towns to the Alps rising like a great wall—only the lower spurs visible, alas! In the P.M. we went to the Bresa t see the [Luinis] & then t listen t a band & so home. Today I am only going t loaf round a little & for that purpose must stop writing— Richard met M^r & M^rs W^m Spottiswoode here. I wasn't with him— My goodness they tour in a difft spirit to us. AmerganQQQQ & heaven knows where besides in 3 weeks. Besides this R. has met Meta G. & at Bellagio there were 2 new friends of his—one a friend of George's—& that is all the humans we have seen that we know. We nearly met Prof Vogt here wh. I sh^d have liked. It is pretty hot in Milan & I think sitting in the cathedral will probably be my end & aim this morning.

I'm rather tempted to buy roman [scarfs]—as we've given up Venice I feel I may give myself every possible luxury— R. however unkindly gives me t understand that if I wear one it will look like a scarf with a little woman inside— R. has gone out t telegraph t Turin for beds so I've 10 minutes more t write in. Tis a little difficult to divide our journey— We cant go on from Turin t Susa in a day, tho' tis only 3 hours t Turin, without making it a 7 or 8 hour journey. Then next day it leaves us only a 2 hour journey—& then the day after a good long one– – There being only one quick train a day any where & that always starting at unearthly times does make it so difficult if you want to cutQQQQ it up [wit] little snacks. I shan't write again till Geneva  You will be sick of writing me bulletins all over the world on spec— all tho Bellagio letters & the [Biney] & Aigle we shall get however. Will you write a bulletin to Poste Restante Geneva— I don't see now how we can change any more. If we could I've not the least doubt we should. Ten t one we shan't go up the Salène as we now think we shall–- -but this will not interfere with our getting your letters.

Goodbye now dear Mother | yours ever | H. E. L.

Best love t Sno if she still at [Tromers]. Do get M^rs. F F cleared off before I come home.