From H. E. Litchfield to Emma Darwin 21 October [1876]

Dearest Mother.

It is turned most bitterly cold here & if I hadn't brought my sealskin I shd n't know what to do. Of course we feel rather low abt the weather & think it has broken up for good. Our tour has to depend rather upon weather, as there are one or two things near Rouen we shd like to do if its fit for any driving. This morning we all set out at abt 10 for a poke round—gng up & down many delightful dirty old streets & into the Cathedral. It is a beautiful town & full of picturesque bits wh. only want a little sun to make them perfect. There are some bits as full of crinkum crankums & gables as even Norman Shaw cd desire— In the afternoon we took a fiacre & drove to the museum & St Ouen St Ouen seems to me now the most beautiful thing I ever saw. It has that wonderful soaring effect that french Cathedrals give one—& such a glory of stained glass— It is equally beautiful outside & in & I [hated] the keen wind wh. made loitering a matter of physical pain— Since then I've been lying down & Emmie reading & now after dinner we've got a little wood fire in my bedroom wh. makes us quite sing. Thank B. for her card which I got at 2 o'clk—just 24 hours from Down! I was v. glad to hear of no m. mumps & that little babs is flourishing. I am thankful too that a day is fixed for Frank's coming back. I keep thinking how he'll bear it.

P.S. After your letter.

Dear Mother. I'm so sorry for all yr bother. I felt so vexed because I told Jane if anybody felt anythg at all queer they were to let me know.

We are not the least pinched indoors & don't want a fire till after din. The sun is looking up & I am only writing a scrap to catch [part] before we go out for our afternoon stroll. You shall have Hope in the course of ages back again.

I am so glad you approve of little babs. It feels v. flat to me not seeing him every day.