Mount Edgcumbe 1
Devonport
Novr 7th 1862
My dear Henry
You must have heard through Constance Amandier & Rosamond, 2 how much we enjoyed our visit at Speddoch. 3 We made an interesting journey after that, thro’ Carlisle, where we waited ½ an hour, & then on to Lancaster, where we slept at the King’s Arms – a very old house with a handsome staircase with twisted banisters of old oak. The Landlord has a taste for antiquities & objects of virtù, for on the staircase & landings & in some of the rooms, you see nothing but ancient carved furniture, & curious old bits of china standing on them, which must be in constant peril from waiters & visitors too. One large oak bedstead is worthy of Cotehele 4 – & the staircase is also hung with good pictures – so that one feels more as if in an old Country house than at an inn. The next day we stopt 3 hours at Chester, & drove about the town, admiring the very curious old streets & rows & the Cathedral – & then proceeded to Ludlow. The Inn there (the Feathers) is excessively old & picturesque tho’ not I suppose considered the best – as the people look [sic] surprized when we said we would go there instead of to the Angel. However we were quite satisfied, & it was very cheap. The Sittingroom was panelled with old carved oak – & had a fine ceiling of the same. This house was formerly the residence of the Governors of the Castle.
We walked next morning, which was fine & bright, to see the old Castle; & were quite enchanted with it. I was so glad you recommended us to stop there. It is one of the most picturesque & satisfactory ruins you can imagine. We saw the rooms inhabited by Edward V 5 & his brother, & those lived in by Prince Arthur, Henry 8th’s elder brother 6 –
In the centre of the 2nd court, stands a most singular round Norman chapel – which was disfigured by Queen Elizabeth. 7 She made a number of ill-judged improvements – particularly an opening in this chapel in order that she might sit in a gallery to which she made an access by a covered way from the State apartments.
We then went on through Hereford, Abergavenny, Newport & Cardiff, to Merthyr Mawr, 8 where we were received with open arms by a numerous cousinhood – & during our 5 days visit, some others came on purpose to see me, who had not been in Wales since I was 4 years old! We were very happy there – & Jane 9 was so dear & kind! She lamented sorely never seeing anything of you.
We drove one day to Margam, 10 where the three girls 11 received us & gave us tea, after shewing us the house, garden, ruins of the Abbey, & Orangetrees. Kit & Theodore 12 were out shooting, & only returned just as we were driving off. It was so dark I could hardly see their faces – but we had 8 miles to drive home, & could not stay. Kit pressed me very much to pay him a visit – but I could not comply, tho’ I should have liked it extremely, as I wanted to get home for Val’s 13 Birthday.
I remembered part of the garden quite well – particularly the pond where you & Kit used to float your fleets of yellow laurel leaves – & I remember the admiration with which I used to observe your skill in sending your ships from one side of the pond to the other, by moving the water with long poles.
Jane has got a list of the ships on the pond at that time, & letters of your’s [sic] & Kit’s, but could not find them to shew me.
I remembered also the monuments, with the figures kneeling on them in a row, in high relief – I really did remember them, because I enquired for them before seeing them. The ladies there & at Merthyr Mawr are excellent shots with a small rifle – & Kit has given prizes – (only among the cousins –) Kate Nicholl 14 one [sic] a pretty locket with opals & diamonds – Ernestine 15 tried most successfully, I also tried – & at 100 yds the first shot, I hit the bull’s eye – but alas! nothing but failures followed.
We left Merthyr Mawr on Tuesday, & crossed from Cardiff to Burnham in 1h & ¾ – too late to catch the Mail train. We waited 1h & ½ at Highbridge – & then 2h at Exeter, where we got into the Night Express & arrived at Plymouth at ½ p. 12. Next day we came over here; where we found Ly Brownlow 16 & the Edgcumbes – Charlie 17 arrived for dinner.
Tonight the Digbys 18 are coming, in their way to Carclew. 19
Write to me soon – & try & cultivate some acquaintances at Edinburgh – for the girl’s [sic] sake
Yr affte Sister
Caroline
Charlotte Traherne & Louisa Gallwey 20 were at M. M.
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