From Thomas Archer Hirst   Sept. 20th 1852

München, | Sept. 20th 1852

My dear John,

You see from this heading that I am in the celebrated and beautiful city of Munich – I have been here four days doing nothing but looking at beautiful buildings pictures and statues until I am almost satiated. I am even neglecting my journal for want of time, so I must cut you rather short and let you see further particulars in the common receptacle of my thoughts sayings and doings. I only write in order that you may know my movements in the event you should require me in England. As I expected, I shall be in Berlin early in October. If you have occasion therefore to write after the receipt of this it will find me most speedily if directed Post Restante, Berlin. In any case indeed I should like to hear from you on my arrival in Berlin as my arrangements there will depend entirely on your letter. I cannot close my letter without telling you a little incident I encountered today. There are two Kings of Bavaria living, one the old King Ludwig who some time ago abdicated in favour of his son the reigning King Maximilian the 2nd.1 The old King is further notorious from his connection with Lola Montes.2 In spite of this piece of folly, however, he is a fine old fellow and greatly loved. He it is who has changed Munich from a dirty puddle hole to one of the most magnificent of European cities.3 He is just now building out of his own private purse a new and splendid building called the Pinakothek4 for a modern Picture Gallery. On the outside all round are cartoons now painting, illustrative of the development of art in Munich, which will immortalize all the architects, sculptors, painters, etc. that have worked for him, for they are all pictured there at their several occupations. The old fellow makes this his hobby, and spends all his fortune on it. He is mightily pleased also to let people see it. To-day we5 went there and as we were in one of the rooms intent upon a cartoon in walked an old gentleman, a young one in Grecian costume, four ladies, and at their back an immense man in livery who immediately scowled on us and beckoned us to retire. It was his Majesty old King Ludwig, Otto King of Greece, the young reigning Queen of Bavaria, and 3 of the [six] princesses. I knew him immediately from his portrait and of course doffed my hat and was about to retire according to the scowling footman’s orders, but the Queen stepped up to us and in a very graceful manner addressed me in German, telling me to remain, that the King was very glad indeed to shew his building. Upon this the old fellow stepped up to us also and began chatting to us in a quite familiar way, asking us what we were, if we were brothers, and from what country. On telling him we were English and my brother William an architect6 he was still more gracious, and he and the queen continued the conversation in English (not very excellent I must confess, but they seemed to like to speak it). This was the most familiar specimen of royalty I had ever the luck to meet, and I felt my heart somewhat expanded towards kings and queens in general.

Write soon. With love, | Thine affectionately, | T.A. Hirst.

R1 MS JT/1/HTYP/209

LT Transcript Only

two Kings … King Ludwig … King Maximilian the 2nd: Ludwig I was King of Bavaria from 1825 until 1848. Maximilian II served as King from 1848 until 1864.

notorious from his connection with Lola Montes: Ludwig I was notorious for having affairs, including with Lola Montez, an Irish dancer and courtesan. See B. Seymour, Lola Montez: A Life (Vail-Bailou Press: New York, 1996), p. 287.

most magnificent of European cities: Maximilian II was the main benefactor of the Maximilianstrasse and the Bavarian National Museum. His enduring legacy was one of cultural revival and support of German arts.

Pinakothek: an art museum in the Kunstareal in Munich, Germany.

we: Hirst and his brother, John. Hirst recorded the incident in his journal entry of 20 September.

my brother William an architect: this is incorrect. It is John, Hirst’s companion, who was an architect. Their brother, William Aked Hirst, was a farmer. The error was most likely made by LT in transcribing the letter.

Please cite as “Tyndall0662,” in Ɛpsilon: The John Tyndall Collection accessed on 5 May 2024, https://epsilon.ac.uk/view/tyndall/letters/Tyndall0662