4th. Aug. 1858
My dear Tom.
I ought to have written to you sooner—but the weather has delayed my expedition to Monte Rosa.1 My course thus far has been 1st to Zurich,2 thence to Lucerne3 across the three intervening lakes. Thence over the Brunning4 to Meyringen.5 Thence to Grindelwald.6 Thence across the Strahleck7 pass to the Grimsel8 thence to the Rhone glacier9 & down to the Rhone Valley to Viesch.10 Thence to the hotel Jungfrau11 on the Eggishorn12 where I now sit. For the last few days the weather has been fine and a wholesome north wind gives promise of its continuing so. We13 have had some capital excursions. The Aletsch glacier14 is the finest I ever saw: and round about its origin a series of mountain splendours congregate which I do not think I have seen equalled. The night before last I lay in a cave in the wildest spot imaginable. A simple hardy mountaineer15 was at my side who snored vociferously—you may judge that I heard it all. Next morning 3 oC. and a bright moon saw us on foot; and yesterday I boiled water and planted a minimum thermometer at the summit of the Finsteraarhorn.16 It is a splendid mountain. Water boils there at 187o Faht.! The mountain is the highest in the Oberland.17
My guide18 was a splendid fellow. Prudent, strong, but with a courage and hard head which were quite inspiring. We were at the top of the mountain at 10½ oC. A.M. descended and reached the hotel, fresh and strong at 7½ P.M. having had 16½ hours as hard work as I ever went through.
Today I am resting—but I feel wonderfully well. I had eight hours sound sleep last night—which have gone a wonderful way in restoring my expended force. Friday morning next I purpose leaving this place for Zermatt19 or that region, I will leave word at the hotels in the neighbourhood where I am to be found so that you may easily find me when you come. We shall ascend Monte Rosa; and I hope you will be along with us. I have half a dozen more letters to write so will conclude this
most affectionately | John
BL 63902-874E-10
Monte Rosa: see letter 1478, n. 22.
Zurich: see letter 1333, n. 11.
Lucerne: see letter 1536, n. 3.
Brunning: see letter 1536, n. 5.
Meyringen: see letter 1536, n. 4.
Grindelwald: see letter 1536, n. 10.
Strahleck: see letter 1536, n. 12.
Grimsel: see letter 1517, n. 2.
Rhone glacier: see letter 1297, n. 12.
Viesch: see letter 1536, n. 16.
hotel Jungfrau: see letter 1536, n. 20.
Eggishorn: see letter 1297, n. 6.
We: Tyndall, geologist Andrew Ramsay, and guide Christian Lauener.
Aletsch glacier: see letter 1536, n. 19.
hardy mountaineer: Johann Bennen.
Finsteraarhorn: see letter 1536, n. 27.
Oberland: see letter 1527, n. 13.
My guide: Johann Bennen.
Zermatt: see letter 1297, n. 7.
Please cite as “Tyndall1538,” in Ɛpsilon: The John Tyndall Collection accessed on