From Thomas Archer Hirst   Sepr 10th 1861

St Moritz | Sep^r 10^th 1861

My dear John

After leaving you in the Visp valley I remained the night in Zermatt and next morning crossed the Theodule to Breuil. I then descended into Italy as far as Chivasso near Turin, turned eastwards & through Novara to Arona on Lago Maggiore. I traversed the Lake and pushed on to Lugano where I was fortunate enough to meet Ramsay and hand over to him his letter which contains an acceptable sum of money. I remained a day at Lugano but finding it too hot and relaxing I pushed on across the lake of Como and up the valley of the Valteline¹ which I followed as far as Tirano and then turned to the left over the magnificent Bernina Pass into the Engadine valley. I arrived at St Moritz on Sunday Evening the 1^st and have been here ever since. I intend to remain as long as possible and then to come straight home so as to arrive in Town before the 25^th. During the 10 days I have been here my legs have improved greatly I have some hopes of returning with them quite healed. I know not whether to ascribe this good effect to the Chalybeat waters² of which I drink daily, to the fresh air at an elevation of 3400 ft to the wholesome diet or to the daily excursions which I make to altitudes varying from 6 to 10 thousand feet. Perhaps all these circumstances have had their share in producing the effect in question. The treatment I have here been advised to follow differs altogether from that of Leucherbad³ and is far better suited to my sluggish temperament. I have nothing to do here with warm baths & drinks everything is cold. Every morning at 6 I take a cold shower bath and drink the water whose temperature is about 40⁰F. Every night I bind up my legs in linen cloths steeped in cold water; around them I then wrap flannel and go to sleep as soon as they begin to tingle with the warmth of my own body which is then prevented from escaping. Next morning circulation is again stimulated by holding them for a while under the shower of cold water. In this manner I have hardened myself and no longer shiver as I did when I first reached St Moritz. I have not met Steiner,⁴ but have made many other pleasant German, Swiss & English acquaintances. This is the first time I have used pen and ink since I came for it is the first wet day. I will leave all further news until we meet and only here express the hope that you have returned strong & that we shall spend together a winter of good health and solid work.

Yours ever | T.A. Hirst.

I will write to M^rs Tunstall⁵ a day or two before my arrival.

RI MS JT/1/H/246