WCP6719

[1] [p. 208]

BARRA DO RIO NEGRO, April 1, 1851.

I am trying to procure a boat and crew for ascending the Rio Negro, though the weather is not likely to be favourable for this until June, but, warned by past experience, I begin my preparations three or four months beforehand. I have now a collection of above 300 species¹ made at the Barra², and would send them but for an unexpected difficulty that has arisen. In this land of [2] [p. 209] forests I cannot find boards to make a packing-case! I brought a large one with me from Santarem [Santarém]³, but how I shall get another I cannot tell. As I found no difficulty in this matter at Santarem, I did not dream of any here, but a sawmill which existed here was burnt down two years ago, and since then no planks have been prepared at the Barra.

I have just received your letter and the very welcome list of my first Santarem collection. I have no time to make any remarks upon it, but I need hardly say that it is extremely gratifying to me to find that it includes so many new species. If No. 594 be really the Tecoma toxophora of Martius⁴, then was he⁵ quite mistaken in supposing it the Pao d' Arco [Portuguese: bow-wood] of the inhabitants, for it is a low tree with soft wood quite unsuitable for the making of bows; the Indians call it Tauarí do gapó, Tauarí being a general name for trees whose bark admits of being split into thin layers. There are two Bignonaceous trees called Pao d' Arco, of only one of which (148) I have yet seen the flower.

I have no doubt my Barra collection includes more variety and novelty than any previous one, but the weather has been wretched for collecting and preserving. Since our arrival on December 10 until this day, only five days have passed without rain, and these were all in February. For three weeks together I have not once stirred out without getting a thorough soaking. I have certainly not shrunk from exposing myself, and hitherto I have not felt any ill effects from it.

Two Englishmen came into the Barra a few days ago from the Rio Negro, where both had [3] [p. 210] nearly died of intermittent fever. One of them is still unable to leave his hammock. Mr. Wallace, however, writes to me from the frontiers of Venezuela that he is far above the region of the ague⁶ (it commences at two days from the Barra), and that he is enjoying himself amazingly in a romantic and quite unexplored country. Were there steamboats on the Rio Negro I would not be long ere I joined him, but, alas ! there are no such things; he himself was above two months in getting up, and there is nothing for me but betaking myself to the Brazilians' universal remedy, patiencia [sic] [Portuguese: patience].⁷

The second lot I sent from Santarem, containing about 200 species, not getting away as I expected, I afterwards arranged (everything is ar[r]anjado [Portuguese] here, meaning procured, collected, etc. etc.) about 100 more. These two collections I presume you would distribute together.… Be the number ever so small, to keep them here cased up would be to have them devoured.…

April 26. — The vessel which was to have taken Mr. King⁸ and this letter to Pará⁹ has been delayed by an accident not infrequent in these rivers: an igaraté [Tupi] (large canoe) sent to procure cargo for her in the mouth of the Solimoe˜s was swamped in a storm just before reaching her destination; the cabins and masts were destroyed and others had to be prepared ere she could return. Meantime has arrived Senhor Henrique's¹⁰ large cutter from the Solimoe˜s, nearly laden — she has now taken in all her cargo, and I profit by the opportunity for sending off all my collections to England. The dried [4] [p. 211] plants are in two very large cases, and comprise between three and four hundred species.…

I use certain terms in speaking of localities which may require explanation. We call the virgin forest here the mato [Portuguese], or sometimes mato siergen [virgem] [Portuguese]; the "brush" that springs where forest has been cut down is called matinho [Portuguese] or the little forest; deserted farms are called capociras [capoeiras] [Portuguese] — their vegetation is scarcely different from that of the matinho; finally, the forest bordering the rivers, which is wholly or partially under water in winter, is called gapó [Tupi: flooded land]; and the vegetation often forms a distinct band quite different from that of the "terra firme [Portuguese: firm ground]."

I have now purchased a boat for ascending the Rio Negro; it is of 6 or 7 tons burthen¹¹, and has got a tolda da popa [Portuguese] (poop cabin) and another da proa [Portuguese] (at the bows), convenient for keeping my goods dry; it was built at San Carlos in Venezuela, and has made but one voyage. I have given 140 milreis¹² for it, or £9:6:8 (at the present rate of exchange, 28d.), and I shall have to spend about another 100 milreis on it to make it suitable for my purpose. The most difficult task will now be to procure men, and I shall have to give up a few weeks to the preparation of the canoe and the hunting up of men. I can do very little just now in plants; the river is nearly full and everything has flowered on its banks that belongs to the rainy season, when the dry season commences there will be another flush in the vegetation. I propose, however, shortly going two days' journey up the Solimoe˜s (the name by which the Amazon is known above the Rio Negro) to see if there is anything there different from what I get here.…